Eating Goat in Tehuacan: Mole de Caderas

For many reasons, this post won’t be for my vegetarian and vegan friends. For many reasons.

I was in the Valley de Tehuacan with Yunuen and Gabriel from Xoxoc. We were there to visit Lourdes, who makes our wonderful bean pots, cazuelas, comales and steamers, all out of the local clay. More on her later. We arrived in Tehuacan just in time for comida, the main meal of the day. We also happened to arrive in October, which is the month of the slaughter of the local goats and the town celebrates by making a dish called Mole de Caderas. Apparently it is quite long and involved but from the taste of things, it’s totally worth it.

Our meal started out with a rice course and the cooking liquid is at least in part the consume from the cooked goat.

Mexican rice

The next course means I can check off another item from the bucket list I’ve never bothered to make. These are goat udders. Yes, you read that correctly. Ubres a la plancha with garlic and onions. I don’t think I’ll be hunting this down again for my next trip but they were fine and really, if you’re going to eat an animal, you should try not and be queasy about it.

Sadly, this is the goat udder.

My complexion in the photo with Gabriel looks a bit like I’m having a heart attack but I was very sunburnt from a day in the thermal water in Hidalgo. I’m tickled to be with my pals and eating good food.

Gabriel and Steve

The main event was the mole itself and it was a huge bowl and 100% delicious. I don’t eat enough goat to know how the bones work but there was a lot of delicous meat and the thin, soupy mole was a knockout. It was almost like a sporting even but I did manage to get most of it eaten. Following this with a good mezcal and then a siesta made it an almost perfect day.

Mole de Caderas

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