A Vegetable-Rich Minestrone Soup with Cranberry Beans (Borlotti)

Simple Feast is a great app for your iPhone or Android that features recipes from the some of the world’s best chefs. Like a lot of these new food apps, it features a shopping list and nutrition information but I think it’s the array of chefs and recipes that really sets this one apart.

The soup and bean-obsessed among us will fall for Chef Paolo Dorigato’s Minestrone with our Cranberry beans.  It’s loaded with great vegetables and it’s substantial enough to serve as a meal.

Minestrone
Adapted from a recipe by chef Paolo Dorigato

This recipe uses the cooking liquid from the beans as the base for the soup, but it you prefer, you could use chicken or vegetable stock.

8 ounces (a generous cup) Rancho Gordo Cranberry beans, cleaned and rinsed
Extra virgin olive oil
2 pounds plum tomatoes, peeled seeded and chopped
1 large leek, white and light green sections cut into thin rounds
1 small bunch Swiss chard, leaves cut into narrow strips
1 small bunch broccoli rabe, tender stems and leaves cut into small pieces
1 large zucchini, medium dice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 medium onion, medium dice
2 large carrots, thin slice
2 large stalks celery, medium dice
8-ounce slice pancetta, optional
Pinch fennel seeds
1 cup medium dice butternut squash
1 small potato, peeled, medium dice
Small wedge of parmesan cheese
Slices of toasted country bread

Soak the beans covered by at least 2 inches of cold water overnight.

Drain the beans and put them in a pot with 14 cups of water. Add 3 tablespoons of olive oil and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the beans are tender 45 minutes-1 hour. Strain, reserving the cooking liquid.

Blend 1 cup of the cooked beans and 2 cups of the cooking liquid until smooth. Return to the pot, stir in 4 cups additional cooking liquid and bring to a simmer, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

Heat a generous film of olive oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the leek, onion, carrot, celery and pancetta, if using. Season lightly with salt and cook, stirring often until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in the fennel seeds for 30 seconds, add the broccoli rabe and cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes to cook to remove any moisture, then add the chard and cook for 5 minutes.

Stir in the pureed beans, the butternut squash, potato, zucchini and whole beans. Add additional bean stock to adjust the thickness and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 30 minutes.

Remove the pancetta from the soup. Dice it and return to the soup. Add additional salt and pepper to taste, drizzle with olive oil and top with shavings of Parmesan cheese.

This recipe and photo ©Simple Feast. All rights reserved. Reprinted with permission.

 

Leftover Strategies: Grits with Black Eyed Peas and Bacon

Earlier, I wrote about cooking on my wood-burning stove and the success I had making grits. It was simple and fun but even having given away a lot to my mother, there was still plenty left.

This morning, I gently heated the grits with a little chicken stock. Meanwhile, I sauteed some chopped bacon pieces, drained the excess fat and then stirred in some leftover Black Eyed Peas. I made a bed for the pea mixture and yes, it was ugly but so delicious that I can’t wait to make it again. It fills you up and I felt I should go build a pyramid or a freeway or something. This is the perfect cold weather breakfast for playing or working outside.

Not being a Southerner, I don’t know if I’ve done something offensive or not. I based this on a recipe for polenta and Cranberry beans from my first book. Please forgive me if I have made a blunder.

A vegetarian option would be to replace the bacon with my mushroom carnitas recipe. You could also do it with just the peas and polenta but I think you deserve better.

Look, Ma! I Made Me a Cassoulet!

I spent Sunday finally making a cassoulet. I’ve been curling up with Kate Hill’s Cassoulet: A French Obsession, for a week or so and finally decided to take the plunge.

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I will admit I’d been working myself up into a frenzy about this and now that I’ve done it, I can say in all honesty that it’s easily within anyone’s grasp to make an excellent cassoulet.

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I made a few compromises but it’s easy to stay within Kate’s guidelines. Well, a lot. Please don’t hold it against her that I improvised so much. Her book is the real deal. The real secret is time. If you do a little prep, you only have to assemble things and then wait as it cooks in a relatively low oven. The pay off is the dish itself. How can you be in anything less than a great mood when you see this monster come bubbling towards you out of the oven?

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One of the steps is to brown the meat. After I’d finished, I tossed some bacon cubes into the pan and after they were cooked, I added some white wine and butter and used this as a sauce for some pasta. It was the perfect lunch while we waited for the cassoulet to finish and it made me feel as if I were a very good cook.

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So my advice is to not be intimidated, give yourself plenty of time for low, slow cooking, don’t get too hung up on the specific meats and sausages and make sure you have lots of friends over because this is one rich dish. Per Kate’s advice, I served it with a very acid salad to counter the debauchery of the cassoulet.

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Another tip from Kate: Keep warm bean broth on hand for basting. You may not need it but it’s sure handy if you do.

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One last thought: Nobody seems to mention this part but your house smells incredible for hours.

Cassoulet beans (from French Tarbias seedstock) at Rancho Gordo
Cassoulet: A French Obsession by Kate Hill at Rancho Gordo
Cassoulet Gift Box featuring 2 pounds of beans and Cassoulet by Kate Hill

 

Sunday Supper: Dover Sole in Hoja Santa

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Things seem so nuts and my one island of control and sanity is Sunday Supper. I’m lucky enough to have one of my sons and my mother on hand almost every Sunday and often we have friends. The world gives me a royal pain these days but preparing something for those I care about is my revenge.

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This particular Sunday, I noticed that my hoja santa plant (Piper auritum, also hierba santa or acuyo) was starting to feel the effects of autumn. I use the slightly anise-flavored leaves a lot so it’s a little sad saying goodbye for the winter. I has some sole and the rest is history.

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Brussel sprouts were trimmed, halved and then tossed in olive oil and garlic. I had half an onion on the way towards the compost, so I added that as well. Salt, too.

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I used to hate beets, deeply. Now I love them. I think it was from an Italian that I learned to rub them with olive oil and salt and then wrap them in foil before baking for about 50 minutes at 375F. I dislike using foil but it really is the best way to make beets I find.

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My son Nico made a paste of about 6 cloves of garlic, salt and some olive oil in the mortar. Kids love to pound things so if you want to get them involved, this is a good choice. We rubbed all the fish with the paste and then wrapped the pieces in cleaned hoja santa leaves, placed them on a cookie sheet and baked them for 7 minutes at 375F.

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A dinner without beans? I’ve never heard of such nonsense.

I cheated a bit. I fount these Alubia Blanca in the freezer and defrosted them.

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If I may, I will say that this is one of the best ways to cook fish. The leaves keep the fillets moist and add just enough flavor. The garlic ended up being rather intense but the green of the hoja santa, even when cooked, kept things fresh-tasting.

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I like this technique for Brussel sprouts.

Supper was a success, there was peace on my mountain and Monday was much more tolerable.

 

The Kind of Company You Want For More Than 3 Days

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I think this is the hummingbird that stays all winter and makes nests in the spring.

I get the sense that the egg-laying hasn’t been successful but I’m not sure.

She rests on this gorgeous Par-a-Sol feeder and leaves when a bullying male comes by, but she returns back in her own time. I pretend she knows I am helping her. Hey, you get your kicks where you can!

We sell the feeders in our Napa and San Francisco stores.

Leftover Strategies: Spinach, Ricotta and Cassoulet Beans

This photo has made the rounds on Instagram and Twitter so I thought I’d add it here as well. It seems to have struck a nerve.

I’ve had people ask me for the recipe and of course, there really isn’t one.

Rancho Gordo heirloom Cassoulet beans with spinach and ricotta

Leftover cassoulet beans, leftover frozen spinach and big dollop of ricotta cheese. Salt. Heat. That’s it.
It was great. I’m not sure how you make creamed spinach but I’m going to assume it’s much more fattening than this. Whatever the cream and butter provide in the classic dish, the beans do the work here. Frankly, I much prefer this texture.

Mushroom “Carnitas” with Heirloom White Beans

These boiled, then fried, mushrooms are intense and delicious. We love them with our Cassoulet beans but Alubia Blanca, Ayocote Blanco, Flageolet or Marcella beans would all be great.

You can also chop them up finer and use them in lots of other dishes. A taco with just the mushrooms and some cheese would be terrific.

The recipe has morphed from the original but the technique for the mushrooms comes from the blog, He Cooks, She Cooks, from a technique developed by Dave Arnold and Niles Noren at the International Culinary Center (NYC).