Clay pot cooking – Page 3 – Experiments in my New World Kitchen and Garden

The Simplest and Best Soup I Know and the Trick to Make It Magnificent

If you love beans, you want beans. You don’t want a lot of other things getting in the way. But if you’re making soup, you do need to do something. My answer is to fry stale tortilla strips. I know for most of us, frying isn’t something we do everyday. It can be messy and if you don’t use the oil again, it’s seems wasteful. I have a very small cast iron skillet and it’s perfect for a small bit of frying. I also have peanut oil in an old wine bottle that I keep in the fridge between uses. I tend to use the same oil three or four times over the course of a month.

It’s a slight hassle but something magical happens when you fry corn in the form of tortillas. And if you add it to the soup as a crouton, it has a wonderful texture and taste. The rest of the soup is so simple, fried tortilla strips don’t seem like much of an indulgence.

Recipe: Sopa de Moro

1/2 yellow onion, chopped medium
2 cloves minced garlic
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 pound Rancho Gordo Moro beans, cleaned and rinsed
Sea salt
3 corn tortillas, preferably a little stale, cut into very thin strips
Oil for frying
1 teaspoon Rancho Gordo Oregano Indio
Limes for garnish

In a large pot, saute the onion and garlic in the olive oil on medium heat until soft, about 6 to 8 minutes. Add the beans and cover with about 2 inches of water. Turn the heat to high and bring to a full, rapid boil for 15 minutes.

Turn the heat to low and allow the beans to gently simmer. Make sure the beans are always covered by about 2 inches of liquid, adding new water as needed. Cold water can seize the beans and slow down the cooking process, so it’s best to have a tea kettle or a pan with warm water on hand to add as needed.

After about an hour, the beans should begin to soften. Add a tablespoon of sea salt and allow the beans to continue cooking until done. Total time will be between an hour and a half and 3 hours. If it’s taking too long, turn up the heat.

While the beans are cooking, heat the oil in a skillet and fry the tortilla strips in the hot oil until crispy. Allow them to drain on paper towels and salt generously.

When the beans are soft, correct the seasoning and add the teaspoon of Oregano Indio. Ladle into bowls and top with the tortilla strips.
Serve with limes.

N.B. I used Moro beans because I love them and I had them in my pantry. You could do this with most any bean. The ones with the best bean broth would be the wise choices.

A slightly different version of this appeared in our newsletter using Rebosero beans.

Buyer Beware! Not All Clay Pots Are Equal!

My recent habit has been to make a tomato sauce with fermented green chiles and then poach an egg in it, via a small clay cazuela. I’ve been using my Mexican clay and it’s been working like a charm. Plus, it’s a delicious way to start the day.

I know that not everyone has a Mexican clay mini-cazuela (what kind of world do we live in that this has to be true?) so I thought I’d practice with one of my Spanish cazuelas. I’ve always thought that if the clay were dark and muddy, it should be fine but if it breaks and the inside looks like porcelean, it’s only for low oven cooking, not direct heat.

Well, I was wrong! These Spanish cazuelas are not for direct heat. I used a very low flame and the next thing you know, crack!

I’m not upset as I have many of these and many more Mexican pieces but I thought it was interesting to note.

And for good measure, here’s a Mexican mini-cazuela with a poached egg in tomato sauce a few minutes off the heat. It’s still bubbling and still in one piece! We’ll have to look into importing these. They’re very handy and cute, too.

Heirloom Bean-Mushroom “Carnitas” Casserole

This beautiful little casserole has made several inspired dishes out of what were essentially leftovers. I’ve cooked 90% of my dishes on the stove-top and it’s kind of funny discovering the oven after all these years.

The technique for the mushrooms comes from the blog, He Cooks, She Cooks. It’s not intuitive, doesn’t make much sense and yet it’s the most sublime technique for button mushrooms. I call it mushroom carnitas as the mushrooms cook in liquid and then fry themselves in fat after the liquid evaporates. The flavor is intense. I have been using olive oil instead of butter and I add a bay leaf during the cooking. It makes me feel like I’m helping.

A note on tomatoes: when did they start becoming so bad in a can? I remember when tomatoes weren’t in season, it was fine to get a big can of whole, peeled tomatoes and they were delicious. Now they are stingy and dry! I’ve tried Muir Glen and Trader Joes brands recently. I’m trying to avoid cans with BPA lining and both of those pass but the product was very lackluster. I know some of you are thinking, Why not just buy crushed tomatoes in a can if you’re going to chop them up anyway? I think the quality of those crushed or pureed tomatoes is even worse and I suspect there’s much less tomato inside and you’re paying for tomato juice. Yes, I can be a pain.

2 cups cooked Eye of the Goat or another Rancho Gordo heirloom bean
6 ounces canned whole peeled tomatoes, chopped roughly
1/2 cup tomato juice from the can
1 cup Sauteed Mushrooms (I refer to them as “Mushroom Carnitas”)
2 cloves garlic, minced
1.5 teaspoons thyme
1 teaspoon salt
5 very small fresh mozzarella balls

Combine all ingredients except the mozzarella in a small casserole. Stir well. Check for salt, noting that the beans and mushrooms are likely to already be well-salted. Push the mozzarella down in five places.
Bake uncovered at 375F for about 45 minutes, but start checking at around 30 minutes. The liquid should be bubbling and the cheese starting to melt.

Mazano Chiles Steamed Like a Tamal: Diana Kennedy’s Chile Canario en Pilte

Manzano chiles are also known as Peron and apparently in Oaxaca, Canario.

They look like habeneros but they have much more flesh and a less tropical, but no less delicious, flavor. They are powerful but not quite as humbling as a habanero. The seeds are black and shouldn’t be eaten. I’ve fermented the chiles and they were incredible.

Every time I look at Diana Kennedy’s Oaxaca al Gusto: An Infinite Gastronomy I find something different. Her recipe for Chile Canario en Pilte is simple and completely new to me. From the Sierra Mazateca of Oaxaca, it’s easy to like, especially if you have access to yierbasanta.

I’ve had banana leaves in my freezer for months, waiting for something to be done with them. A quick rinse under warm water made them pliable enough to cut and fold. A longer soak might have been better but I was impatient.

Six manzano chiles were cut in quarters with the seeds removed. Diana calles for thinly sliced scallions but I had to do with onions cut into half moons. All is tossed with sea salt.

On each banana leaf went several yierbasanta leaves (also known as hoja santa or acuyo, depending on where you are in Mexico) topped with the chile/onion mixture.

The banana leaves are folded up into a nice rectangular package and then tied.

This is a beautiful clay steamer from Los Reyes Metzontle. We import them as part of the Rancho Gordo-Xoxoc Prjoect. I about plotzed when I first saw it. We now carry two sizes. The larger is better for a big tamal party and while at first I thought the smaller version would be kind of silly, it’s the one I use more often, for steaming things like this and everyday vegetables as well.

A banana leaf is placed on the bottom and then the packages are stacked up, ready for their sauna treatment.

After about 35 or 40 minutes (probably less in a metal steamer), the aroma is heady. The chiles are soft and onions are infused with both the chile and the yierbasanta. There’s nothing quite like it.

I had made some blue corn tortillas and even stuffed some of them with refried black beans. This chile relish was perfect for them.

Later at dinner, I made a simple pork tenderloin and thought to bring out the Chiles en pilte. All was fine until I hit a very hot one. The heat was unbelievable and I had to excuse myself for a moment. When I returned, I went back for more.

A Micaceous Clay Pot from Emily Swantner

Our lovely Moro beans are posing inside this really incredible pot by artist Emily Swatner.

Seems like a marriage made in heaven.

Meeting the Great Traditional Chefs of Michoacan

I was rather shocked when I got the invitation to be a judge for the Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Michoacan. I’d attended the event a few years ago and just loved it. About 60 women set up temporary kitchens in a park and the public was invited to buy tickets and sample their traditional dishes, which were competing for a good cash prize. Most of the cooks were indigenous women, many of whom traveled through very dangerous country to attend. They mostly cooked on huge clay cazuelas and comales over a wood fire. Even though many of the cooks made similar dishes, it was amazing to taste the difference of each woman’s touch.

After looking in my Spanish dictionary to confirm that jurardo did indeed mean judge, as I thought, I accepted the invitation. What choice did I have?

The event itself is very well organized by a team under the supervision of the State Secretary of Tourism, Roberto Monroy Garcia, a gregarious and charismatic leader who seems at odds with one’s vision of a stuffy, bureaucratic Mexican government official. He knew when to be respectful of visiting dignitaries and he knew when it was time to pass the mezcal and relax a little. His staff was casual but never unprofessional and you always had the feeling that the welfare of the cooks was the most important thing, and that celebrating them was the reason we were all there.

They say that it’s the journey, not the destination. It’s hard to believe now but as I was packing to go to Morelia for the event, my destination was to get past it so I could come back to work. At Rancho Gordo, we’re on the verge of solving some very serious inventory issues (as those of you who have tried to order Royal Coronas and other favorite beans have discovered). We’re also moving ahead with a website makeover and adding staff dedicated to customer service. It’s exciting to finally see the business you’ve imagined in your mind for so long, coming into full fruition. Sure, a trip to Mexico is always appreciated but my loopy head was more looking forward to a new Rancho Gordo website. Oh, how the mind loses perspective!

Now, back to the main event. The general public was allowed in for free over the three days, and could purchase tickets to sample the wares from any of the contestants. Some of the women were natural salespeople and others seemed very shy. They were all supported by local culinary students who seemed just as in awe of the women as the rest of us were.

There were dinners and events and lots of chances to play but it was made crystal clear to the judges: When we were dealing with the cooks, all play was over. We were expected to be on time and ready to taste the moment we were scheduled. This was out of respect for these women who had traveled so far and had so much riding on the results. Less than all of our attention wouldn’t have been fair.

One’s immediate reaction to the festivities might be: How great. These women, who probably don’t have the most wonderful lives, especially these days of narcos, bad economies, and lack of opportunity, come to Morelia and they are queens for three days. But the attitude is a little condescending. The women seem to understand their value and don’t need us tourists to validate their talent. They obviously appreciate the opportunity and they are somewhat tickled and confused when a group of chefs crowd around like groupies. But for the most part, they have a real sense of who they are, what the culture is, and it’s we tourists who gain as much, if not more, for their being in Morelia.

I didn’t eat one less than wonderful thing the entire time, but I do remember in particular a taco made with charrales (minnows), smothered in an intense green sauce and served with a tri-colored tortilla. It sounds so ordinary on paper but it was magic. Also stuck in my mind is a gordita invention that was a layer of masa patted with refried beans, ripped in half and one part put over the other, then the sides were folded, and then finally covered with masa. What looked like a nice fat sope or gordita was in fact a multi-layered bean-and-masa treat. The fish wrapped in tamal corn husks and then poached in a broth with hoja santa and aromatic vegetables was also a surprise, and I think I have a new party dish.

Rancho_gordo-19

Arguably, the queen of the event is Benedicta Alejo Vargas. It seems that whatever she cooks is destined for greatness. It’s a real joy to watch her work. As she grinds nixtamalized corn for masa on her metate, you see the hard kernels fall apart from the pressure of the volcanic rock and yet her fingers fly daintily, helping stray pieces of corn back into the mixture to become masa. She shapes her tortillas with confidence but there’s always time for a gentle pat or push. It’s almost like she’s infusing her food with love, as corny as that sounds, but one taste and all traces of cynicism are gone.

While I loved seeing all the adulation for Benedicta, I couldn’t help but feel the success has complicated her life. I had the impression that she just wants to do good and share her kitchen, maybe even help outsiders understand her culture, and serve God. This all happens, but people (me included) have the need to hug her, tell her how wonderful she is and take their photos with her when she probably would rather get back to lovingly forming tortillas and gorditas with her delicate yet strong hands. Once in a while, when swarmed by a group of fans, she breaks her steady smile and flashes a look that almost seems to say, “Somebody help me here. This isn’t what I signed up for!” but of course she’s too gracious to say something so unappreciative and the smile returns and she tolerates the adulation.

I can’t thank my hosts enough for this amazing experience. Lucero Garcia Medina was running the show and her passion for the cooks was never far from the surface. Aliz Reyes helped this fumbling gringo arrange the trip and practical day-to-day matters and America Pedraza scared the crap out of me and made sure I was never late, but she always did it with humor and believe me, if I were needing help, I'd want her on my team. She also refused to try and understand my English and in the end, made me a better Spanish speaker. I think the world of her!

I also had the chance to eat out and there were many memorable meals. A fabulous dinner at Tata from chef Fermin Ambas was a highlight. Cynthia Martinez’ San Miguelito makes me want to fall in love with someone, anyone, with its romantic atmosphere and delicious food.

Lucero Soto of the famous LU Restaurant was kind enough to remember I was “the bean guy” and had a rare bag of beans waiting for me in my room when I arrived. (Sadly, I thought it was weird granola and bit into it after a mezcalito or two.) The Sopa Tarasca she serves at her restaurant is the version to beat.

Finally, I want to mention my fellow judges. What a nice group of really smart, really fun people. These kinds of things can be deadly but you could feel the collective love for the cocineras from everyone involved.

Breakfast with Eggs Poached in Heirloom Tomatoes

The more I read about breakfast cereal, the more I question its value as a breakfast food. Processed grains with sugar floating in milk. I have the habit but like a lot of things these days, I'm re-examining it. Why do I need sugar to wake up? Why does this thing need to float in milk? Do I really love the taste?

If I think about it, I'd much prefer something savory. And of course any excuse to cook in a clay pot is a good one.

I've had too many tomatoes from my CSA this year but not enough to can. I ended up cooking them a bit and running them through the food mill to catch the skins and seeds. Now it's ready to use and more importantly, easy to use. I sauteed some onion, garlic, Mexican oregano and olive oil and when soft, added some of the tomato puree.

Once it reached a gentle simmer, I poached two eggs in the liquid until they just set. Then using a slotted spoon, I took them out and gently added some of the cooking liquid to the bowl. Served with buttered whole wheat bread, it easily beat a bowl of Kix and cold milk. My youngest was licking the bowl. Something I act like I discourage but when it's real food, I'm happy inside, despite my protests. Shhhh. Don't tell him.

Xoconostle Chicken

Sunday night means family meal and as our weather has been mild, almost cool, it seemed time to pull out the old chicken coffin, as I call it, and make one of the most delicious chicken preparations I know.

The clay piece has a lid and it's really called a Diable. I prefer coffin. The results are great. You plop a whole chicken in and aromatics and go to town. I tossed some chopped potatoes, onions, garlic and carrots in olive oil. I stuffed the bird with some leftover cilantro, parsely and hoja santa. I dropped a hand full of chopped, dried xoconostle in. Finally a glass of white wine is added.

The pot has a lid and you place it in a 400F oven for two hours. I've found 1 and a half hours, then removing the lid for 20 minutes, does the best job.

The chicken was perfection and I was happy to use my new serving platter from my friend Geraldine, who found it at an estate sale. Not that I'm a snob or a name dropper, but I was very happy to see that it was a vintage piece from Uriarte in Puebla.

This is the third time I've used the pot and it's almost the best chicken I've ever had. The potatoes that are saturated with wine and chicken juices make me a little weak in the knees.

I did try this with xoconostle before but didn't chop them up and they ended up looking like worms. The chopping did the trick and they are much more appealing and the sourness is so perfect with the white wine and heavy chicken goodness. It's going to be a great dinner.

I would love if someone out there tried this with a Romertopf. I've never used one but I think this would be terrific.

Cooking with Clay: Castelnaudary, France

After India, but before Italy, my obsession was France. I would read the Paris Match on the bus in San Francisco and pretend I could understand most of it. "Any of it" would have been a victory. I just wanted to travel and be sophisticated more than just about anything. Funny how things change!

I'd read about Poterie Not on Kate Hill's wonderful blog years ago and hinted to the lovely Kate that it would be really nice for her to bring me back a proper cassoulet pot. I hinted that I would like one by screaming and crying and pleading with her as I howled at the moon, refusing to stop until this famous clay was mine. It didn't work.

Another friend told me about a mail order source and well, there you have it. I now have several pieces.

The classic Cassole.

Gratin dish

The dish in action!

Diable! It's the devil in clay form. It's really more like a chicken coffin.

You stuff a chicken and put it inside with vegetables and a glass of wine and all I can say is it's well worth it.

I've ordered twice through the mail from France. The first time things went off without a problem. The second time, I ordered two diable by mistake but it was a good thing as one broke and this was months ago and I'm still dealing with it. It looks like I will never be compensated. The French post only will pay a small part (and none of the shipping) and in order for that to happen, you have to have the US post help you and let's just say it's been a lesson in anger management. I can't recommend the company, the French post or the US postal service. But I'm happy with the French clay I have and I think I'll have to leave it at that.

Cooking with Clay: Tagines

Now wouldn't you think someone who cooks Morrocan food once or twice a year could get by with one, or even none? How many tagines does a person need? Apparently, at least three. As always, I was inspired by Paula Wolfert and her early masterpiece, Couscous and Other Good Food From Morroco, now revamped and updated as The Food of Morocco. I purchased all three from tagines.com. Note that they are a great price and good value, but unlike the Mexican pottery I've cooked with, they tend to more delicate. You need to take a little more care and make sure they don't crack from extreme temperature swings or contact with hard objects.

The top one is dedicated to meat and chicken. The middle one is about the same size and dedicated to fish and the same tagine, only smaller, in the last photo is dedicated to vegetables. I don't know if this is really needed but they are all unglazed and it's better to have too many than to few, as I seem to be saying all the time.

If tagines are new to you, you basically put them right on a heat source and cook in them. The lid holds in the moisture. I've seen recipes where the whole thing goes in the oven and I think you should ignore that advice. They are basically a mini-oven as they are. There are glazed versions and I hear they work but they don't interest me.

Going camping? Bring along your tagine! This is a brazier and a few hot coals or slow burning wood make this a very handy thing to have. You can also put a pot of sterno and use this as an almost prehistoric chafing dish.