Jesús Helguera, Our Calendar Artist

One of the first things I did when I started Rancho Gordo was to offer free calendars every year featuring almost exclusively the art of Jesús Helguera. I love the idealized, often policially incorrect, images of post-revolutionary Mexico. There are some real problems but there’s a clear sense of Helguera’s patriotism, and loads of campy good fun.

I asked Karla from our customer service department to do some research on Helguera so we all could know a little more about him. She used an uncredited book I have, Jesus Helguera (1989, Galas de Mexico) for much of the information. – Steve Sando

The Jesús Helguera Story
by Karla A. Moreno

Renowned Mexican painter Jesús Enrique Emilio de la Helguera Espinoza was born on May 28, 1910 in Chihuahua, and spent his early childhood in Mexico City and Cordoba, Veracruz. When Jesús was 7, his Spanish-born economist father moved the family to Ciudad Real, Spain, to escape the effects of the Mexican Revolution.

Rancho Gordo owner, Steve Sando, loves this image so much, he brings it back every few years on our calendars. It’s the only repeated image we’ve used so far.

During his elementary school years, Jesús began to develop his lifelong interest in art. He created murals with scenes from literature, illustrated his history lessons, and painted large-scale rural maps. Even at a young age, his teachers recognized his devotion to painting; one instructor made him responsible for his school’s art class at the age of 9. He completed his high school studies at the Escuela de Artes y Oficios in Madrid. At the age of 14, he was admitted to the Escuela Superior de Bellas Artes, and later studied at the famous Academia de San Fernando.Helguera met Julia Gonzales Llanos in an art class; she served as a model and inspiration for many of his paintings. The couple married and had two children, Fernando and Maria Luisa. Contemporaries described Helguera as outgoing, sincere, and affable — a loving husband and protective father.

La Bamba

Helguera worked in Madrid and Barcelona as an illustrator for books, magazines, and comics for many years. In 1938, due to the Spanish Civil War and its resulting economic issues, Helguera returned to Veracruz. Capitalizing on the current vogue for mural-style work, the tobacco company Cigarrera La Moderna hired Helguera to produce artwork for its cigar boxes and calendars. His works during this era display his fascination with both indigenous mysticism and Catholic religion, and feature an idealized, romantic aesthetic. His heroic images of Aztec royalty, smoldering volcanoes, and smoky-eyed women inspired generations of imitators.

La Leyenda de los Volcanes (The Legend of the Volcanoes)

In 1940, Helguera painted his most famous work, La Leyenda de los Volcanes (The Legend of the Volcanoes), inspired by Aztec stories of Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl. In 1954, he joined Imprenta Galas de Mexico, a large printer of calendar artwork. At Galas, he was known for spending long stretches in his studio, painting whenever inspiration found him, regardless of the hour.

Helguera worked until his death in December 1971. His last painting, Las Manañitas — showing a gallant caballero serenading a radiant maiden perched on the sill of a bougainvillea-covered window — now hangs in one of Mexico City’s leading cultural sites, the Museo Soumaya of Fundación Carlos Slim.

If you ever needed any help in deciding how hip and great Linda Ronstadt is, here’s proof.

Helguera was largely unrecognized by fine-arts culture in his lifetime; not until 1985 did he finally received formal recognition from Mexico’s Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes. Throughout the years, Helguera’s works have been broadly pirated, reproduced (not always faithfully) on ceramics, stone, metal, and wood. Millions of copies of Helguera’s works have hung proudly in countless Mexican homes, both in Mexico and in the United States, and for thousands, through the annual Rancho Gordo calendar.

One of our most frequently asked questions is, “When do you release the calendars?”
Unless there’s some weird problem, we start shipping calendars with all of our holiday orders starting the Friday after Thanksgiving. This year (2021), we may start earlier because if anticipated crazy shipping times. We keep including them in all of our packages until they run out, generally in February but some years it can be as early as December. First come, first served! – Steve

Flageolet Salad with Lemon, Radishes, and Oven-Roasted Tomatoes.

A vegan salad to be enjoyed on its own or served with traditional Easter dishes.

I don’t think of Easter as an inspirtational meal but that’s changing. I grew up with industrial hams in cans and lots of bad chocolate. I was invited to my friends’ Easter celebration and when I heard that there’d be both ham and lamb, a lemony vegan side dish seemed in order.

Raw, they have almost no taste. Roasted in a low oven, they become delicious jewels.

It’s clearly too early for good tomatoes but I’ve been craving them after the long winter, which seemed to end overnight here in Northern California. Cherry tomatoes sliced in half, dusted with salt and pepper, drizzled with olive oil, and then topped with fresh time went into the 250F oven for just about an hour.

You can use them in beans, salads, and even pasta.

They don’t compare to in-season tomatoes but they’re terrific. Use them like sun-dried tomatoes in salads, pasta, and of course, with beans. I left the thyme stems in as long as possible but be sure to pick them out before serving.

One pound of dry beans yields about six cups of cooked. Make them a day ahead so they can cool and you’ll have one more thing done the day you serve them.

It’s not a bad idea to make sure beans ahead of time. Bring them to room temperature before you strain them and be sure to save the liquid for another meal. Take care that the beans are well-salted. Things tend to need a bit more when they’re served room temperature or cold.

Flageolet bean broth. Liquid gold!

Recipe: Flageolet Salad with Lemon, Radishes, and Oven-Roasted Tomatoes
6 cups cooked Rancho Gordo Flageolet beans, cooked (from one pound dried)
1 medium red onion, chopped fine
1 bunch Italian parsley, chopped fine
1 bunch radishes, cleaned and sliced thin with a mandolin or vegetable peeler
12 ounces cherry tomatoes, sliced in half
5 sprigs thyme, leaves stripped from stems
olive oil
1 ½ lemons for juicing
salt
pepper

Heat the oven to 250F. Arrange the tomatoes, cut side up, on an ungreased baking tray. Add the thyme leaves to the tomatoes, along with a little salt. Add the stems and any leftover thyme and then drizzle a light dose of olive oil over the tomatoes. Cook for about an hour until the tomatoes are slightly shriveled but not dry. Allow to cool and then roughly chop them.

Toss the beans with the tomatoes, onion, parsley, and olive oil. Add the juice of one lemon and check for tartness. It should be very lemony. Add more lemon juice as needed.

Salt and pepper to taste. Just before serving, add the radish slices and more parsley, if desired. Optionally, you can garnish with a lemon slice.

Make sure you use lots of lemon juice.

My New Favorite Dish for Christmas: Bacalao Mexicano

I don’t know if this is a tradition anywhere in Mexico, but this strikes me as a generous, somewhat easy to execute Christmas dish. I’ve been making trial runs, and my family has loved it. I guessed that this recipe would serve 4-6 people, but this made my mother laugh. I reminded her that not everyone would be having seconds and thirds like she was. I think it would feed 6 normal people just fine. 

It’s handy to keep a box of salt cod in your fridge. It needs to soak and be de-salted before you cook but this is easy and only a little time consuming. I’ve seen many different times for soaking but I think 24 hours is plenty. 

I used a large, clay cazuela but a small stock pot or soup pot will be fine. 
Many recipes call for almonds and raisins but for me it’s almost too much. I love the cod-tomato-chile combination as it is. 

All of this is approximate and vague. It’s hard to mess this up. 

Recipe: Bacalao a la Mexicano

1 pound salt cod, soaked for 24 hours with several changes of water
1 large onion, chopped small
4 cloves garlic, minced
Extra virgin olive oil
5 canned plum tomatoes and their juice, roughly chopped
1 teaspoon Rancho Gordo Oregano Indio
¼ cup capers (I use salt-packed Italian capers, soaked for about 20 minutes with a few changes of water)
½ cup green olives (I used Castelvetrano olives with pits, which I smashed with a knife and removed the  pits before chopping roughly)
5 cooked potatoes, quartered
2 red bell peppers, roasted and roughly chopped
Salt to taste
3 jalapeños en escabeche, chopped 
1 bunch flat leaf parsley, chopped
Optional and traditional: ¼ cup raisins and ¼ cup slivered almonds

Poach the cod in water with an onion, over medium low heat for about 20 minutes. When cooked, set aside and allow to cool. 

Saute the onions and garlic in a pot in plenty of olive oil and saute until soft over medium low heat for about 15 minutes. Add the tomatoes and the oregano and continue to simmer for another 10 minutes. 

Remove the cod from the soaking water, reserving the cooking water. Once cool, shred it with your hands to small, bite size pieces. Shred the fish small, not tiny. 

Add the potatoes, peppers, capers and olives to the pot. Stir gently and then carefully add the fish and simmer for 10 minutes or so over medium low heat. The dish should be like a thick soup with some broth. If it seems to dry, add a little of the reserved cooking water from the cod. Taste for salt. 

The dog didn’t get any bacalao but he was there and I felt it should be documented. 

At the Movies: Video on Making the Luckiest Black Eyed Peas Ever.

This is the recipe that switched me from passive Black Eyed Pea consumer to a true advocate.
It’s very simple, traditional and delicious. New Years Day will be a happy one with this going on in the kitchen.

Our Black Eyed Peas were harvested this autumn and when we run out, that’s it until next year.

You can order Rancho Gordo Super Lucky Black Eyed Peas today.

How Lucky Can You Get? Black Eyed Peas for the New Year

It seems that for a lot of people, 2016 wasn’t a great year.

As 2018 approaches, it seems as if we need all the help we can get. Eat Black Eyed Peas on New Years Day for luck. Please. Just do it, just in case. We’re counting on you.

It may mean nothing or it may be the key to success in the new year, but either way, eating Black Eyed Peas couldn’t hurt!

I was searching the New York Times for Martha Rose Shulman’s excellent vegetarian Black Eyed Peas with Collard Greens recipe when I stumbled upon all of these great looking Black Eyed Pea recipes, especially this one by David Tanis.

Our peas were harvested late autumn and are about as fresh as a dried pea can be. We have a limited amount and once they’re gone, that’s it for the season. As of this writing, we’ve reached our cutoff for Christmas delivery via ground shipping, but you can still order Rancho Gordo Super Lucky 2018 Black Eyed Peas and they’ll make it to you in time for New Years Day.

 

Holidays at RG: The Rancho Gordo-Xoxoc Project Sampler

ranchogordo-1120782
Gabriel and his lovely daughter, getting a kick out of climbing a tree.

When my friend Ruth Alegria told me I needed to meet Yunuen and Gabriel, I shrugged my shoulders and thought, why not? I didn’t understand the work they were doing to promote the sour prickly pears known as xoconostle and even if I had, at best, I would have thought it was interesting. I couldn’t have dreamed that our lives would be intertwined for the next 9 years.

Together we’ve created a market for traditional Mexican farmers to grow their heritage beans (and not give in to pressure to grow commodity beans for the superstores.) Each year, we buy and sell more and it’s a great situation where everyone wins.

To celebrate this great marriage, we have the Rancho Gordo-Xoxoc Project Sampler. Now you’re a part of this great experiment as well.

ranchogordo-01470

It’s quite likely this is the first time they’ve offered outside of their region, let alone outside of Mexico. The beans have been saved and passed down for generations and now you have a unique opportunity to try them for yourself.

AYOCOTE BLANCO
Big and fat and creamy, there really isn’t a task in the kitchen it can’t handle. When fully cooked, it’s somewhat starchy and has a mild potato flavor, which screams for bacon or pancetta. Keep cooking and they go from dense to creamy and even a little buttery. You can make an elaborate dish like a cassoulet or you can just drizzle your best olive oil on the top and enjoy them with no fuss.

AYOCOTE MORADO
Ayocote Morado are a cousin to the more famous Scarlet Runner and can be used anyplace a runner bean is called for. These beans are big and creamy but the pot liquor (or “caldo”) is thin and flavorful, almost like a boullion. They cook up dark in color, so save a few of them to remember their lovely purple coloring when raw!

Remember, Free Shipping on orders over $75

SAN FRANCISCANO
From the state of Hidalgo (and sometimes seen in Puebla), these lilac-and-black marked beans are probably a very near cousin to what we’ve grown as Rio Zape. Like Rio Zape, they have a luxurious pot liquor (bean broth) with hints of coffee and chocolate. San Franciscanos have a sturdier skin, making them more versatile and usable in salads and composed dishes as well as chili, soups, and stews. But we think the best way to enjoy them is plain, and pass around the salsas and garnishes like grilled onions, grilled cactus paddles, limes, Mexican oregano and fresh cheese.

SANGRE DE TORO
A classic red bean from the heart of Mexico, Sangre de Toro (or “Bull’s Blood”) is a tremendous and versatile bean that can be used in Southern dishes as well as in Caribbean and Central American meals. Dense and meaty, Sangre de Toro has a good pot liquor and can be used whenever red beans are called for. We like them for salads, chili, red beans and rice, and soups.

Order the Rancho Gordo-Xoxoc Project Sampler now.

Holidays at RG: La Dolce Vita

As I think I’ve told you in the past, much of my youth was spent in Italy. I had good friends in Liguria, Tuscany and Rome. I ended up living in Milano for a spell and would spend the weekends visiting, eating, drinking and in general, living the Good Life.

1924041_32455443426_6061_n-1

I would love to go back and tell my younger self to lay off the cigarettes but otherwise, my 20s were enchanted for the most part. Italy will always be a key part of what made me who I am. I still am smitten.

ranchogordo-0002

Even though I’m obsessed with Mexican cuisine, it doesn’t mean that all those years loving Italy were for nothing. I still cook under the influence of Bell’Italia and this sampler contains the key ingredients for Italian bean cuisine.

ranchogordo--5

A one-pound bag each of our four favorite beans for cooking a la Italiana. Minestrone soups, pasta e fagioli or just a bowl of amore is in your future.

ranchogordo-01469

Marcella Beans:
Marcella beans are grown in California from ItalianSorana seedstock. Sorana is a cannellini bean with incredibly thin skin and when cooked properly, an indulgent creamy texture. You can use them in your kitchen as you would any small white, European-style bean, but with an ingredient like this, simple is often better. Good crusty bread with some Marcella beans smashed on top, drizzled with your very best extra virgin olive oil and maybe a dusting of freshly cracked pepper is the new standard for “fast food.”

Cranberry (Borlotti) Beans:
Cranberry is an odd name for a lovely, versatile bean. Thought to be originally from Colombia and then bred in Italy, Cranberry beans are soft and dense with a velvety, rich texture. The thin skins help produce a rich bean broth, making it the natural friend of pasta e fagioli (pasta fazool) as the liquid coats each noodle with its luxurious sauce.

Royal Corona Beans:
A new hand-harvested crop straight from Europe into your pantry. Giant, fat, white runner beans that are creamier and more luxurious than Greek and Spanish gigandes and a little denser than traditional Italian coronas. Royal Corona beans can replace any white bean but be prepared to be astounded by how big they are when cooked. Fully cooked, they can be a little starchy but you can also keep cooking until they reach the creamy point.

Remember, Free Shipping on orders over $75

Garbanzo (Ceci) Beans:
Garbanzos aren’t a true “new world” bean, but we love them so much and the imported crops tend to be so old and dusty that we make this one of our California crops.

Optional: Napa Cakes Panforte
A traditional Italian classic. Napa Cakes Panforte combines almonds, hazelnuts, dried raisins, B&R Farms Blenheim apricots and tart cranberries with a bit of oat and almond flours, Salute Santé grapeseed flour and oil, honey, cocoa, cane sugar, and spices, then bake them slowly into moist, flavorful delectable cakes. Great for a cheese plate or with vin santo after dinner.

P.s. Yes, the fellow in all the photos is me. I suffer from what I call Carrie Fisher Syndrome. When asked continually about her weight gain and aging, she said something like, “Yes, I was hot in my 20s. Lots of people were. Get over it!” In the nicest way, of course.

 

Holidays at RG: The Desert Island Sampler

Please don’t ask me to tell you the name of my favorite bean. It changes daily! I love all the heirlooms we grow for different reasons. But if I were to be sent to a desert island, these are the five varieties I couldn’t do without, even though I’d probably have a different list tomorrow.

This is one of our most popular gift boxes and with good reason. I would be happy to be alone on an island with these five beans.

ranchogordo-01468

SANTA MARIA PINQUITO: A very small, chili-type bean that is loaded with a delicious pot liquor and meaty texture; a perfect match for any barbecue, chili or even salad. These beans don’t need doctoring up! Just some onions, garlic, a little fat and your pot of beans is ready for summer, and beyond.

MIDNIGHT BLACK: Midnight is a true black turtle bean with a rich, traditional black bean flavor and texture, unlike our Black Valentine, which is a wonderful black bean, but it’s more in the kidney bean family.Use in any recipe calling for black or turtle beans or just enjoy on their own. These are incredibly fresh so little, if any, soaking is required.

ALUBIA BLANCA: Classic Alubia beans are one of our more requested items. You can use these small white European-style beans in all kinds of cooking, from Yankee baked beans to soups to Italian “beans on toast.” They have a thin skin but still manage to hold their shape, making them ideal for salads.

Remember, Free Shipping on orders over $75

CLASSIC CRANBERRY: Cranberry beans only look like cranberries. And even then, I don’t quite see it. Originally from South America, these beans have been bred around the world and have become Madeira, Borlotti, Tounges of Fire, Wren’s Egg and many more. This is the classic from Colombia and are perfect for any recipe calling for a “cranberry” bean.

YELLOW EYE: Unlike Navy beans, which have a slightly gummy, babyfood texture, Yellow Eyes are dense, creamy and delicious. Great Northerns can be plain boring. Replace Navys or Great Northerns with Yellow Eyes and your dish becomes a feast. You can have them on their own or use them with a smoked ham hock. I don’t think there’s a better bean for Senate Navy Bean Soup. Also excellent for a simple vegetarian soups.

Order the Rancho Gordo Desert Island Sampler now.

Holidays at RG: Heirloom Corn Prepared Hominy

If there’s a better Christmas Eve dish, I don’t know what it is.

Posole is the essential nixtamalized grain, from rare heirloom corn, for hominy stews and more. Dried hominy/posole is superior to the canned version in every way.

ranchogordo-2519

In very limited quantities, we have gorgeous, colored heirloom corn dried hominy. These rare corns only need to be soaked and simmered to be enjoyed.

ranchogordo-2523-2

Cacahuazintle is cherished in Mexico for the very best traditional pozole. The extra large kernels and white color are preferred. The Blue is hearty and also works well in salads. The Red corn has less natural fat and has a more “whole grain” taste.

ranchogordo-2530

Leftovers for all three can be ground to make superior heirloom grits.

ranchogordo-2557

This is a mixture of all three corns. Looks interesting but I don’t know if it’s essential.

ranchogordo-2687

Surprisingly, this was the best thing I did with my last batch. It’s a simple vegetable soup with posole. I ate tons of this and I’d do it again.

ranchogordo-1-4

Seafood and fish for Christmas Eve seems most traditional. We have an easy recipe for you to consider here.

Buy Holiday Posole at Rancho Gordo now. You can choose between red, blue and Cacahuazintle, or one of each.