Steamed Fish Wrapped in Hoja Santa

I’ve never seen this done in Mexico but I bet there’s a village somewhere that steams fish in hoja santa/acuyo leaves. I’ve done something similar where I steamed fish in a corn tamal wrapper but I had a delicate sole on hand. I also wanted something quick-ish and easy. 

I marinated the fish in olive oil, garlic, a small splash of pineapple vinegar, salt, thinly-sliced zucchini, onions, and Oregano Indio. The fish was later wrapped into sloppy packets and tied with butcher twine and steamed for about 10 or 12 minutes. The zucchini really needs to be thin so I used a mandolin. 

I bet you could do the same with grape or fig leaves. If the fish were sturdier, you might grill them as well. 

I Apologize in Advance: Other People’s Gardens

I’m going to take a guess and say that seeing other people’s gardens is almost as interesting as cat photos, as in, not at all. But please indulge me. This is my first home garden in years and it was from a home garden and being a frustrated home cook that Rancho Gordo was born. We were lucky enough to find a spring on our property and were able to send the water, by gravity, down to these raised beds. We added a battery-powered timer and now without using any household electricity or water, we have vegetables.

So far we’ve enjoyed lots of radishes but that gets old fast. We loved the Japanese turnips and especially the turnip greens, with Fatted Calf guanciale. The cucumbers are great and I see zucchini in our future very soon. The tomatoes and peppers will have to wait for later in the summer.

I’m very excited to see little visitors that aren’t squirrels, field mice or rats, so this chipmunk made me very happy. I hear they can be just as irritating as the others but when you’re so cute, you can get away with a lot of mischief.

If there is one secret to home gardening, especially in a place like Northern California where there are literally are no summer rains, it’s to add a drip line. I loved coming home from work and hand watering as a stress reliever but nothing compares to a drip for happy plants.

In the photo below, you can see some black trees in the background. These are dead from The Fire. Notice how close to the propane tank they got and you can understand how appreciative I am that we only lost a barn, garbage and some forest.

I think the next question you might ask is, “What! No beans?”

They’re in a different part of the property and yes, I am very likely to bore you with those shots soon!

More Smoking: Tomatillos

The experiments with smoke continue. Previously I smoked plum tomatoes with great success. Now we’re testing tomatillos.

After peeling off the husk, I quartered them and smoked them with cherry wood. They were perfect!

I used these cooked tomatillos to make a green salsa in my molcajete with salt and garlic. After they were mashed, I added some raw white onion and chopped cilantro. It was a little different but perfectly delicious. Next time I want to try this with hickory or oak wood.

I’m still smitten!

Toiro site for Donabe cookware. 

The Aftermath of the Napa Fires: Some Hope

It feels pretentious and corny for me of all people to talk about hope but I came across this scene at the base of the redwoods at my place. We lost a barn, a small building and a lot trash left by the previous owner. The blackened bark goes up about 15 feet from the fire. The trees looked like goners but they’re happily send out these little green clumps of hope.

We seem to be dealing with a scorched earth kind of politics these days. This photo gives me hope.

Eye of the Goat Beans with Ricotta Salata

Eating simply is my idea of heaven. Use the best ingredients and then stay out of the way.

I remember reading about ricotta salata in La Cucina di Lidia by Lidia Bastianich, way back in 1990, thinking I would never find it. It turns out it’s not so rare and I’m guessing because it’s salty, it’s also a long lasting cheese. On it’s own, it’s no treat but it really can make a simple dish sublime.

Eye of the Goat beans with ricotta salata. Basta cosi.

A Simple Soup with Bean Broth

I’m so glad to have chickens again!

You just can’t beat fresh eggs. I get a wee bit frustrated by the prices at the farmers markets here in the Bay Area but in the end, I think it’s worth the extra money. But it’s also worth the hassle to have a flock if you have the space and the inclination.

I poached an egg and added it to a simple soup of chicken broth, bean broth, Oregano Indio and cooked nopales. If the broth is good and the eggs are fresh, you can’t beat this simplicity.

 

Winging It: Pasta e Fagioli with Morels and Bacon

Sunday night after the holidays and not much left in the house. What to do?

I had a sample of the new crop of Caballeros from Peru and in cleaning out one of my cabinets, I discovered a stash of dried morel mushrooms.

I cooked the bacon and left the pieces to rest on a paper towel and then drained all but a scant bit of the fat. I added a little olive oil and then sauteed onion, garlic, carrots and celery until they were soft. Meanwhile, I soaked the mushrooms in lukewarm water for 20 minutes and then chopped them. The soaking water was strained to a paper towel lined sieve and then all of this was added to the sauteed vegetables, along with some cooked Caballero beans and some of the bean broth.

I hope this doesn’t sound complicated. It wasn’t. The bacon was good but it’s really better with pancetta. The bacon and smoke flavors can overwhelm everything, but this was a fine Sunday night dinner with a salad of vinegary greens.

Beans for Breakfast (with Mushrooms, Ricotta and Good Olive Oil)

A few leftovers and some milk that was about to expire led to this really fine breakfast.

Ayocote beans are runner bean. Phaseolus coccineus. This family includes Scarlet Runners and Royal Corona. They tend to be big and go from starchy to creamy. They don’t mind a little rough handling, which makes them great for salads but Ayocote Negros (which I used here) have a really beefy broth that’s excellent on its own. Ayocote Morado are the purple version but once cooked, they’re pretty interchangeable.

If your milk is about to go, heat it to 180F and then add some acid, like lemon or our Pineapple Vinegar with a pinch of salt. Leave it for 10 minutes and then strain it through cheesecloth. It’s good! And it beats wasting milk. There are many recipes and techniques on the web but we like this version from The Kitchn best.

Also on hand were a batch of Paula Wolfert’s great and easy Sandpot Mushrooms.

The mushrooms met the beans and a little thyme and some Anson Mills Carolina Gold rice. The whole mess was topped off with a healthy dose of The Olive Queen’s very limited Olio Nuovo and all was right in the world.

Slow Baked Garbanzos

One of my favorite books from the last years has been The Blue Zones (National Geographic, 2008) by Dan Buettner. Statistics for longevity are examined and there are some not so surprising conclusions reached, my favorite being that those of us lucky enough to make it to the old folks stage tend to eat beans.

The Greek Island of Ikaria is mentioned a lot and it’s referred to as the place where people forget to die. Citizens work, garden, eat whole foods, little meat and of course eat beans (and drink wine.) Works for me. Diane Kochilas’ book on the cuisine is Ikaria: Lesssons, Life and Longevity from the Greek Island Where People Forget to Die (Rodale Press, 2014) and there are a lot of solid recipes, making it worth your consideration. It’s a serious cookbook from someone who clearly loves good food.

Like many great dishes, it just takes a few ingredients to make something grand. In this case, almost cooked chickpeas are the foundation, followed by layers of onion, garlic, bell peppers, carrot and tomato.

This is slow-cooked for nearly three hours.

The vegetables end up with a great melt-in-your-mouth texture and create a sauce with the garbamzos and olive oil.

The original recipe says you can serve it hot, warm or at room temperature. Straight out of the oven, I think it just tastes like heat. Be sure and allow it to cool down. It tasted best at room temperature to me and leftovers the next day were tossed with some ham. Might fine, but perhaps gilding the lily.

Recipe: Slow Baked Garbanzos Beans
adapted from a recipe by Diane Kochilas’ Ikara (Rodale Press, 2014)

1 pound Rancho Gordo Garbanzo beans
6 medium sprigs of fresh thyme
2 medium sprigs of fresh rosemary
3 Rancho Gordo bay leaves
salt and pepper
3 large red onions, half and sliced
3 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced thin
1 each of red, green and orange bell peppers, cleaned and sliced into 1/4-inch rings
1 stalk celery, sliced into matchstick-sized pieces
2-3 large tomatoes, sliced
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Cook the garbanzos in plenty of water with one of the bay leaves. Bring the pot to a rapid boil and continue cooking for 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium low. Gently simmer the beans until they’re almost soft, about an hour to an hour and half. (Timing will vary wildly if you are using older beans or a brand other than Rancho Gordo.) Strain the beans and reserve the cooking liquid.

Preheat the oven to 325F.

In a oven proof clay pan, like a cazuela, add the drained garbanzos followed by enough of the reserved cooking broth to reach 2/3 of the way up the beans. Add the herbs and lightly salt.

Over the chickpeas, layer the onions, followed by the garlic, then the peppers, the celery and finally the tomatoes, very lightly salting each layer as you continue. Finish with the olive oil. Cover the pan with a lid if you have one, otherwise cover with a piece of parchment paper and aluminium foil. Bake for 2 and half hours. Remove the top and continue baking for another 30 minutes. The liquid should be absorbed and top just starting to char. Remove and allow to cool to warm or room temperature. Crack plenty of black pepper over the top and serve.

(The original recipe calls for a carrot. I had celery on hand, so here it is.)