Easy Beans in a Slow Cooker

Two relatively recent books on slow cookers have inspired me to dust mine off. I go through periods where I am enchanted but often the results are a murky mess. Both Hugh Acheson’s The Chef and the Slow Cooker and Martha Stewart’s Slow Cooker are solid and deserving of your attention.

In the end, I think you can justify buying a slow cooker just for making beans. These books take it one step further.

You put in the beans, unsoaked if they are Rancho Gordo, a little onion, some garlic and maybe a spoonful of olive oil. That’s it. You can put them in in the morning and come home to a wonderful pot or you can start at night before going to bed and in the morning the house is filled with a lovely aroma like no other. You just woke up and you’ve already achieved something grand today!

Herb-Steamed Potatoes and New Olive Oil

By chance, I discovered that steaming new potatoes gave them a superior texture. They weren’t water-logged and since I have a big steaming pot, this technique was easier. I’ve also steamed russets and the jackets come off with no effort. As an aside, steamed hard-cooked eggs are done in 14 minutes and much easier to peel.

David Tanis has a recipe in his book One Good Dish. The potatoes aren’t cooked in a separate steamer but the idea is similar. I copied his idea of using fresh herbs but I put them right in the water and then placed the potatoes in the steamer attachment above them. I had russets that were on their way out, if you know what I mean and I think you do. I peeled them.

To the water, I added some slivers of garlic that were on hand. You know those center pieces that are too irritating to peel because they’re so thin? Cut them in half and add them to the herb bath.

After about 35 minutes, they were done. I let them rest another 10 as I finished goofing around the house and then drizzled some Olio Nuovo from Olive Queen over the sliced potatoes. Parsley, salt and pepper. I know this isn’t much of a recipe but it’s proof when you have good ingredients, you don’t need much of a recipe.

Leftover Soup from Marcella Beans, Rapini and Wild Rice Broth

I can’t take too much credit for this. These were the components leftover in my fridge.

2 cups Marcella beans and some of their liquid
1 1/2 cups broth from making wild rice
1 roasted red pepper
1/2 cup chopped broccoli rabe (rapini) that had been tossed in olive oil and then pan roasted
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
drizzles of lemon juice and olive oil
rye bread crutons from stale bread that had been dried in the oven

The beans were about to “go” (if you know what I mean and I think you do) so I pureed them with the wild rice broth and red pepper. Then I heated them through with the broccoli rabe, tomato paste and Wooster sauce. I placed the stale bread croutons in the bottom of each bowl and then poured the very got sauce on top. Drizzles of lemon juice and olive oil were the icing on the cake.

For me, this was so delicious but the best part is that these were all ingredients sitting around. I used to toss stale bread loaves but not anymore. I rip them apart into bite-sized pieces and then lay them on a rack to dry. My old Wedgewood stove has a pilot light and is perfect for this but I think any dry place would work.

Greens for Beans

I like them all: dandelion, kale, chard, lambsquarters….all of them. I could live without spinach but I would never make a fuss if it was offered.

Sauteed greens are a natural with cooked beans. Or as a filling in a tortilla. The last bit can be used in a soup. I love them and usually have several cooked in my fridge, waiting to be used.

I’ve seem recipes that have you boil them but that seems a bother. I wash the greens and add them to a wide pan of sauteed onion and garlic. Sometimes I use a little pancetta but mostly not. The washed greens cook down and the water that clings to the leaves meets the sauteed aromatics and they become a sauce.

Of course, I have to do everything the hard way so I have a dedicated clay cazuela for braised greens. It’s really not necessary but I like to pretend it is.

Pickled Shallots in Pineapple Vinegar

I’m enjoying David Tanis’ new book Market Cooking. At first glance, it’s a little disappointing. Market fresh seasonal vegetables blah blah blah. Haven’t we heard this a million times before? Maybe. And some of the recipe may seem basic but as you dig deeper, it’s some of the more obvious things that mean the most. Shallots in vinegar. So what? Well, I did have a bag of shallots. What the hell? I decided to get wildly creative and add some Rancho Gordo Oregano Indio and instead of wine or sherry vinegar, I used our pineapple vinegar. This might make Tanis cringe but it might make him smile. Either way, it was delicious and I’ve been using it on everything and even two days later, there’s still a good crunch form the shallots.

Shallots, pineapple vinegar, salt, Oregano Indio, pepper. Macerate for about 20 minutes and you’ve got something nice.

I served these at Thanksgiving and while I’m a fan of traditional gravy, or at least I think I am, I much prefer the brightness of a pickle like this.

The rest of the book is similar. Some of it is obvious to a seasoned cook but more often than not, it’s a gentle reminder about which things go together and how to keep out of the ingredient’s way. I’ve never met David Tanis (we have mutual friends) but I think every American needs to master this book and his other two before they start to make fussier food. Making fussy, “chef-y” food is fun, but so many of us have ignored the basics for the sake of novelty. This book is here to help.

Slow Baked Garbanzos

One of my favorite books from the last years has been The Blue Zones (National Geographic, 2008) by Dan Buettner. Statistics for longevity are examined and there are some not so surprising conclusions reached, my favorite being that those of us lucky enough to make it to the old folks stage tend to eat beans.

The Greek Island of Ikaria is mentioned a lot and it’s referred to as the place where people forget to die. Citizens work, garden, eat whole foods, little meat and of course eat beans (and drink wine.) Works for me. Diane Kochilas’ book on the cuisine is Ikaria: Lesssons, Life and Longevity from the Greek Island Where People Forget to Die (Rodale Press, 2014) and there are a lot of solid recipes, making it worth your consideration. It’s a serious cookbook from someone who clearly loves good food.

Like many great dishes, it just takes a few ingredients to make something grand. In this case, almost cooked chickpeas are the foundation, followed by layers of onion, garlic, bell peppers, carrot and tomato.

This is slow-cooked for nearly three hours.

The vegetables end up with a great melt-in-your-mouth texture and create a sauce with the garbamzos and olive oil.

The original recipe says you can serve it hot, warm or at room temperature. Straight out of the oven, I think it just tastes like heat. Be sure and allow it to cool down. It tasted best at room temperature to me and leftovers the next day were tossed with some ham. Might fine, but perhaps gilding the lily.

Recipe: Slow Baked Garbanzos Beans
adapted from a recipe by Diane Kochilas’ Ikara (Rodale Press, 2014)

1 pound Rancho Gordo Garbanzo beans
6 medium sprigs of fresh thyme
2 medium sprigs of fresh rosemary
3 Rancho Gordo bay leaves
salt and pepper
3 large red onions, half and sliced
3 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced thin
1 each of red, green and orange bell peppers, cleaned and sliced into 1/4-inch rings
1 stalk celery, sliced into matchstick-sized pieces
2-3 large tomatoes, sliced
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Cook the garbanzos in plenty of water with one of the bay leaves. Bring the pot to a rapid boil and continue cooking for 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium low. Gently simmer the beans until they’re almost soft, about an hour to an hour and half. (Timing will vary wildly if you are using older beans or a brand other than Rancho Gordo.) Strain the beans and reserve the cooking liquid.

Preheat the oven to 325F.

In a oven proof clay pan, like a cazuela, add the drained garbanzos followed by enough of the reserved cooking broth to reach 2/3 of the way up the beans. Add the herbs and lightly salt.

Over the chickpeas, layer the onions, followed by the garlic, then the peppers, the celery and finally the tomatoes, very lightly salting each layer as you continue. Finish with the olive oil. Cover the pan with a lid if you have one, otherwise cover with a piece of parchment paper and aluminium foil. Bake for 2 and half hours. Remove the top and continue baking for another 30 minutes. The liquid should be absorbed and top just starting to char. Remove and allow to cool to warm or room temperature. Crack plenty of black pepper over the top and serve.

(The original recipe calls for a carrot. I had celery on hand, so here it is.)

 

Heirloom Tomato & Royal Corona Salad

I remember when I first started gardening and I had the bright idea that direct seeding tomatoes in the ground was the best idea. The plants were incredible and strong and the perfume they exuded made me want to bottle it. Have you ever rubbed a tomato plant just to smell? It’s worth it. The yields were nothing to be proud of but I had nearly a hundred plants so there were plenty of tomatoes, even with my poor gardening skills.

The memory of that summer and just too damned many tomatoes makes me very happy. This year there was not much of a garden and I’ve had to buy them but they’ve been tasting so great, I’m not very upset.

Recipe: Tomato, Royal Corona and Fried Bread Salad

1 pound heirloom tomatoes, gently chopped into cubes
1 cup Rancho Gordo Royal Corona beans, cooked and drained, broth reserved for another use
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon Rancho Gordo Pineapple Vinegar
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon sea salt
Fresh cracked pepper to taste
2 slices country bread, hand ripped into bite-sized pieces (crusts optional, but I like them)
2 tablespoons of fresh thyme, basil or parsley, finely chopped.

Preheat oven to 400F.

Mix all of the ingredients except the bread and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Allow to sit for at least thirty minutes, up to two hours.

As the tomatoes rest, toss the bread with the remaining olive oil and spread out the bread on a flat tray or cookie sheet. Bake in the preheated oven for 10-15 minutes, checking and shaking the pan, every five minutes or so, until the croutons are well toasted.

10 minutes before serving, add the bread to the tomato salad. Some people like bread dense and soggy but I recommend about 10 minutes. The bread is soft but still has some bite to it.
Scatter fresh herbs over the top and serve.
Substitutions: Any of our creamy white beans would work with this. Try also Ayocote Blanco, Casoulet or Alubia Blanca if you don’t have Royal Coronas on hand.

Looking for another twist? Try topping the salad with a pan-fried duck breast. Or two.

A Free eBooklet for Your Best Thanksgiving

We’ve updated our free ebooklet, The Rancho Gordo New World Thanksgiving Guide. It now includes one of our most wildly popular recipes, the main-course Wild Rice and Heirloom Bean Salad from Napa’s Alexis Handleman of Alexis Baking Company. It’s the kind of show-stopper you don’t want to miss. Download your copy now. 

The booklet has 14 recipes, all tailored to this fine holiday of good eating.

Wild Mushrooms with Alubia Blanca

It’s a good thing when your neighbor is Connie Green and she offers you a nice big bag of chantrelle mushrooms.

It’s even better when you have a pot of Alubia Blancas on the stove, ready to eat.

Wipe the mushrooms with a damp paper towel and cut into bite-sized pieces if they’re big. Sauté in both butter and olive oil (2:1) and lots of minced garlic. A thyme sprig of thyme would also be welcome.

You just want to cook for 8 to 10 minutes or so. Remove the thyme, if you used it, and ladle into a waiting bowl of creamy, white hot beans. Transition into autumn with ease.

Pasta e Fagioli with Escarole

Escarole is a rare and exotic vegetable for me. I’d been scared off with stories about its bitterness and frankly, there were plenty of other things to eat that struck me as more appealing.

My greengrocer had it, I bought and now I had to use it. It looks like a head of butter lettuce and it is, as promised, somewhat bitter. On its own, it’s unappealing but wilted by tossing in warm pasta, it’s just great.

You can go heavier on the beans if you like. For me, this is a pasta dish with beans and escarole.

Recipe: Pasta e Fagioli with Escarole

½ onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
2 tablespoons olive oil

¾ cup tomato sauce (I used Lupe’s sauce without the poblanos)
1 cup cooked Rancho Gordo Alubia Blanca beans, or another creamy white bean
1 cup stock (I used chicken and bean broth, half and half)
1 sprig fresh rosemary
½ pound of short, flat pasta (I broke up tagliatelle nests)
1 head escarole, chopped into bite-sized pieces
salt to taste, pepper

Saute the onions and garlic in the olive oil over medium heat until soft, about 8-10 minutes.

Boil the pasta in plenty of salted water.

Add the tomato sauce, beans, stock, rosemary sprig and stir. Lower the heat a little to medium low and gently cook while the pasta cooks.

Strain the pasta. Remove the rosemary sprig from the sauce and toss the sauce with the pasta, along with the escarole. Serve.

Serves 3 or 4 as a light main dish.