Cooking Beans for 200

Rancho Gordo agreed to join the Benchmark Institute’s  event, A Taste of Tamales by the Bay,  and that meant beans for at least 200 people. I had no idea how much to make so I guessed 15 pounds of dry beans. Now, how to make them? I could have done them all in my big industrial roaster/oven thing that looks like a slowcooker from the 1940s but 15 pounds wouldn’t fit in all at once. I eneded up cooking 4 clay pots and one slowcooker batch, thinking the clay really does add something and if I mixed them all up in the end I’d have a pretty great bean dish.

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I decided to soak them for three hours and it was fun watching the beans rise and the water level go down. My Brita filter was working overtime.

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The different pots all came to a boil at different times but they pretty much agreed among themselves to have the Rio Zape beans fully cooked in about 90 minutes. And they really were great. I can’t help but think that the clay helps the flavor and texture. The crockpot batch had less flavor and a firmer texture but there is no evaporation so it’s hard to know if it’s clay or the open lid that made the other beans so superior.

If you’re curious, 15 pounds ended up yielding 8 gallons of cooked beans, which was about twice as much as we needed.

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The event itself was great (I’ll report more on it later) and happily the beans were a big hit.

Rancho Gordo in Gentleman’s Quarterly

Trust me, I do see the irony of me being in GQ. But there I am (if you squint real hard) and there are the beans, looking glorious, well prepared and ready for their close up!

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Author Alan Richman includes Rancho Gordo beans among the "farmers market producers I most admired", along with della Fattoria bakery and June Taylor Preserves. Pretty good company, I’d say.

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The article is about the Ferry Building and features the farmers market. It’s the May issue, available now.

Experiments with Chiles Rellenos

Like most of us in California, I grew up eating battered and fried chile rellenos, stuffed mostly with gooey cheese but occasionally with picadillo. I recently found a rare copy of the out of print Los Chiles Rellenos en Mexico by Mexico City’s brilliant Ricardo Muñoz Zurita and was inspired to think beyond deep frying and experiment with poblano chiles.

Preparing chiles for stuffing is easy enough, especially after you’ve done it a number of times. The Rancho Gordo website has instructions written a few years ago but they’re still valid. Nowadays I tend to roast the chiles in a hot dry skillet and finish off any little crevices with a blow torch.

This first chile filling was made by sauteing an onion and a chopped serrano chile with some oil and Mexican oregano. When soft, I added some cubed zucchini and frozen corn kernels. It’s April and to be honest, I’ve been buying seasonal for so long it was a little odd buying zucchini and corn at this time of year.  I got over it. I then added a cup of cooked Flor de Junio beans and tossed the mixture gently.

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This would have been a lovely little dish but who wants lovely when you can have glorious? I packed the opening with grated Manchego cheese and then popped the chiles into a toaster oven until the cheese had melted.

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Readers, this was just great! And it opens doors about stuffing chiles. You might even try this inside a bell pepper, but I’d just suggest you get a ripe red one rather than a watery green pepper. It will taste better and imagine the beauty of a stuffed red pepper chock-a-block full of summer vegetables.

To be continued.

More Cooking With Clay

With the vague idea of importing bean pots for resale on the website, I’ve been really going through all my pots and assessing their virtues. I really have never met a clay pot I didn’t like, but I enjoy pretending to be objective.

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This pot was part of the crop that my friend Christopher Ann brought back from the Texas border. It’s very big and really needs an entire pound of beans to do it’s thing. Originally, like a lot of things from Mexico, it had a strong soap perfume smell to it. I soaked it overnight in cold water, followed by filling it with water and smashed garlic until the water almost evaporated and then I left outside for two days. Now the smell is neutral and I hope to really break it in this week and make it now that beans are its master!

I think it looks great. It looks a bit glossier in the photo than in real life and I think it will look really good on a barbecue this summer.

Lemon Tuna and White Bean Antipasto Salad

Here’s a tested salad from my friend Leslie in the great Pacific Northwest:

My recipe came from Food & Wine (click for their write up and photo Here).
I doubled the recipe for our group, and for the tuna I used 1 can of  Ventresca tuna in oil which comes from the belly and 1 large can
of As Do Mar Tuna In Olive Oil (from Chefshop & The Spanish Table).
But any good quality tuna will work. And also used a good Italian olive
oil in the dressing that I just picked up at Chefshop, which is
currently on sale for just $10 (walk-in price), reg. $30 (they are
still moving last year’s oils out at these discounts).

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This
salad is a make ahead dish and tastes even better the 2nd day after
flavors have melded, but I served it the same day as made.

Lemony Tuna and White Bean Antipasto Salad  – Serves 4

Ingredients:

* 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
* 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons fruity extra-virgin olive oil (I used a tad bit more olive oil than this to cut the lemon)
* Two 6-ounce cans olive oil packed tuna, drained and broken into large chunks
* 2 cups cooked white beans such as Cassoulet or Alubia Blanca (original recipe calls for cannellini beans)
* 24 pitted Calamata olives, coarsely chopped
* 2 cups thickly sliced celery hearts
* 2 tablespoons capers, drained, or if packed in salt, rinsed
* 2 heaping tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
* 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
* 1 teaspoon minced garlic
* Freshly ground pepper
* 2 roasted red peppers from a jar or 4 piquillo peppers from a jar, cut in strips
* Kosher salt

Directions:

Pour the lemon juice into a large bowl and slowly whisk in olive oil. Add the tuna, cooked beans, olives, sliced celery, capers, parsley, piquillo pepper strips, lemon zest and garlic and toss gently. Season with salt & pepper.

To prepare beans: Follow instructions on the Rancho Gordo web site Here. After they are cooked, drain and rinse off the mirepoix for this salad.

Cactus Salad

Some people see danger. I see dinner!

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A recent secret I learned when making cactus paddles (nopales) is to add some tomatillo husks (and corn husks if you have them) to the boiling water as you cook them. The texture of the nopales improves and husks absorb some of the okra-like goo.

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To make a salad, I used some cooked nopales, cooked Black Valentine beans, cubed cheese, diced red onion, some cilantro and salad greens. Toss with your favorite dressing.

Breakfast of Champions

I was visiting my friends Maria and Isidro in their little village called Tepehuaje, right on the Lago Chapala and the first morning they asked if I wanted to join them for a pajarete. I had no idea what they were talking about but I wanted to be a good guest. We drove to a small glen where we were greeted by a lot of their friends. About 20 cows were eating and being milked. The women all had little kits with mugs and mysterious bottles. Everyone waited and gossiped but I still wasn’t clear on the concept.

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At one point, the man tending the cows gestured to Isidro. Isidro grabbed the mugs from Maria and held them while she dutifully placed a spoonful of instant coffee, a spoonful of sugar and a shot of tequila in each mug. Then Isidro when over to the cow and then finally it dawned on me why everyone was so happy and why my friends start out the day this way. The drink is warm and frothy and I don’t think you need much of an imagination to guess how good it was or what I did for breakfast everyday while I stayed with them.

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Aside from the drink, it was a chance for all the neighbors to get together and swap stories. It wasn’t too much different than a café. Only this one smelled like cow turds and there was no attitude or tip jar.

Cactus Season is Coming

I have to warn you, my interest in nopales is becoming borderline obsessive. I’m watching my once proud and mighty cactus plant rebound from the cold winter and embrace Spring with new paddles and new prickly pears and I’m getting excited.

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In Mexico a few weeks ago, I had a delicious molcajete with shrimp, octopus and nopales. Molcajetes are a little gimmicky, but they’re great. The lava is heated to the point where it’s red hot and then the ingredients are grilled on the hot lava, along with a tomato-based broth and cheese. It arrives at the table still bubbling and it’s a great sense of theater. It’s also a lot more interesting than fajitas.

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The dish is served with tortillas and the cactus and shrimp combination is one that deserves to be explored more.

Back From Mexico

I’ve just come back from a really fine trip to Jalisco and Michoacan in Mexico. The real surprise was the city of Morelia. I had much the same reaction as I did when I first saw Venice: How come no one told me about this? I had no idea it was so wonderful. I love cafe life and Morelia’s is world class. It was like being in Europe only the food is spicy!

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I went hoping to find bean pots (ollas) to import but I didn’t have so much luck with this quest. I did find this nice small pot that will be good for half pounds of beans. It’s a fairly common shape but it is somewhat thick on the bottom and the handles were larger than normal. (Can you see me trying to justify my manic bean pot collecting?)

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I also came back with some new beans, of course, and I’ll be featuring them here over time. These beautiful beans caught my eye in the market in Patzcuaro, the charming town in the state of Michoacan. I asked the vendor what they were. "Frijoles", he replied. "I know frijoles (beans) but what type?" He looked at me as if I were nuts and said, "Frijol".  I compared them to a sample I got about two years ago and I believe the bean is called Patzcuarenses and it’s truly a local bean. I love the yellow and pink colors. Hopefully they’ll taste as good as they look.

Runner Cannellini and Tuna Salad

Again I found myself with just a cup or so of Runner Cannellini in the fridge, so I strained them through a fine mesh wire strainer and made a salad with a drained can of tuna, a quarter of a red onion chopped, a handful of mesclan from Star Route Farms and my own vinaigrette. If bell peppers were in season, I would have added them as well.

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